As American as apple pie

Whereas rising up in Hong Kong, Stacey Mei Yan Fong fell in love with America … and pie. “In America and in films or books that I learn, all people went on street journeys. And all people stopped at diners and received slices of pie. I used to be simply, like, ‘I wish to do this. I wish to go on street journeys, I wish to transfer to America, I wish to eat pie, like, each two hours once I want to make use of the restroom.'”

In 2016, after 11 years of consuming pie in New York Metropolis, Fong wished to know extra about the remainder of the nation.  “And I used to be, like, ‘Oh my God, I may study America via pie!'”

She launched a challenge known as 50 Pies / 50 States. “I bake a pie for each single state. As a result of this challenge actually is, like, a love letter to the nation that I’ve chosen to name residence,” she mentioned.

Some pies are uncommon, like her Oregon Marionberry and Pear Pie (“It is a hybrid or a kind of blackberry”). Some are extra conventional, like Kentucky’s Derby Pie (“A Derby Pie is type of like a pecan pie, however it’s walnuts and chocolate in it”).

And Tennessee received the star therapy: “Dolly Parton is, like, the love of my life,” Fong laughed.

“Sunday Morning” contributor Kelefa Sanneh requested, “Has she seen this?”

“I do not suppose so, however I’d completely lose my thoughts to satisfy her. So yeah, I needed to make her out of pie.”

Pies in different components of the world are usually savory and a part of the primary course. In America, pies are extra possible fruit-filled and served as dessert.

And one thing about pie makes People nostalgic: “Every time my challenge will get introduced up or if I begin speaking to somebody,” Fong mentioned, “they’ve solely talked about, like, reminiscence they’ve had related to pie, proper? ‘My mother made me pie.’ ‘There was pie at a vacation.’ ‘Pie jogs my memory of residence.'”

One pie has achieved “All-American” standing. Sanneh requested, “Why do you suppose it’s that apple, out of all of the completely different pies you might bake, why do you suppose that one has this place on this nation?”

“An apple pie is at all times stuffed, like, so excessive,” Fong replied. “it is like an emblem of this nation’s bounty, and what this nation has to supply.”

In the case of apple pies, Kelefa Sanneh is not a impartial observer when he visited his spouse, Sarah Sanneh, at her fried rooster store, Pies ‘n’ Thighs, in Brooklyn, the place she has been making award-winning pies for 15 years.

Kelefa requested, “In case your restaurant had simply been known as Thighs as an alternative of Pies ‘n’ Thighs, would individuals haven’t felt like they wanted to order pie?”

“Completely, that is the lesson in advertising and marketing,” she replied.

The apple pie story is partly a advertising and marketing story. The concept apples had been All-Aamerican took maintain within the 1700s, within the American colonies, the place apples weren’t a local fruit. “They had been planted, and initially planted for cider,” Sarah mentioned.

Within the 1800s, an evangelist often known as Johnny Appleseed inspired People to plant extra apple bushes, and a few of these apples discovered their method into pie. And through World Conflict II, individuals began saying, “As American as mother and apple pie.” The easy dessert had turn out to be a nationwide custom, and an emblem of American satisfaction.

“That is a humorous factor about apple pie – it has already achieved perfection,” Sarah mentioned. “So, should you go to the best restaurant, otherwise you go to a diner, there is no higher model of apple pie than apple pie.”

Sarah’s model begins with a beneficiant serving to of Granny Smith apples.

• Recipe: Apple Pie from Pies ‘n’ Thighs

To observe a tutorial on making ready Sarah Sanneh’s traditional apple pie, click on on the video participant beneath: 

Kelefa requested, “Grocery store apple pies are actually flat, they usually slot in these white bins. Yours, you want, like, a marriage cake field!”

“It is like a pregnant stomach,” Sarah mentioned. “You actually need it to have that excellent spherical [shape].”

For the filling, tuck within the apple wedges in order that they do not poke via the crust.

“I like a spot,” Sarah mentioned. “I wish to see that the apples had been actually domed, after which they cooked down, and that the crust has sufficient construction to, like, preserve itself with out the apples.

“Once you’re reducing right into a pie, truthfully, should you’re gonna hold it excellent, one of the best ways to chop it’s with scissors, not with a knife.”

“As soon as the scissors have lower the highest bit, you utilize your knife to go all the best way down via the underside bit?”

“Precisely.”

Sarah dished out a slice, served with a scoop. “A la mode! The magical phrase meaning, ‘Give me ice cream!'” Kelefa exclaimed.

As we have fun July 4th, each Sarah Sanneh and Stacey Mei Yan Fong agree you possibly can’t go fallacious with apple pie – however then once more, America is all about choices.

Kelefa requested Sarah, “What could be your second selection?”

“Cherry pie,” she replied. “You do not need a cream pie at Fourth of July. So, I’d do cherry pie, nonetheless, you already know, a traditional American fruit.”

He requested Fong, “Do you suppose it is time for our Fourth of July pie to alter?”

“It may very well be no matter you need,” Fong mentioned. “Like, Fourth of July is your vacation, and you are able to do no matter you need.”

Bon appetit!

     
For more information:

• Stacey Mei Yan Fong’s 50 Pies/50 States (Instagram)
• 50 Pies/50 States
• Pies ‘n’ Thighs, Brooklyn, N.Y.
• Bonnie Slotnick Cookbooks Bookstore, New York Metropolis

      
Story produced by Mary Raffalli. Editor: Lauren Barnello.